Ethan's alarm buzzed at 3:30 a.m., dragging him out of a deep sleep. For a moment, he lay there, questioning his life choices. Was waking up this early really worth it? Then he remembered—Borobudur. The largest Buddhist temple in the world. The thought alone jolted him awake.
By 4 a.m., he was in a van with a handful of other travelers, all of them quiet and drowsy as they made their way to Punthuk Setumbu, a hill overlooking Borobudur where the sunrise views were rumored to be breathtaking.
The night air was cool as they hiked the short but steep trail to the viewpoint. At the top, the landscape stretched out before them—dark silhouettes of mountains, mist rolling over the jungle, and somewhere in the distance, the stone spires of Borobudur waiting for the first light of day.
The First Light
Ethan found a spot to sit on the wooden viewing platform, wrapping his jacket around himself against the chill. The sky slowly began to change, deep blue giving way to soft pinks and oranges. The mist hovering over the valley shifted like a living thing, revealing glimpses of Borobudur below.
Then, just as the first rays of sunlight broke over the horizon, the temple fully emerged from the fog—majestic, silent, timeless.
Ethan exhaled slowly, unable to tear his eyes away.
"Worth waking up for?" a voice beside him asked.
He turned to see a young Indonesian woman, her camera slung around her neck.
"Absolutely," he said. "It's unreal."
She nodded. "It's my third time here, and it still feels like a dream."
Her name was Rina, a freelance photographer from Jakarta. They fell into easy conversation, swapping travel stories as they watched the sunrise paint the temple in golden hues.
"Do you know the story of Borobudur?" Rina asked.
Ethan shook his head.
She smiled. "It's built like a giant mandala, representing the Buddhist path to enlightenment. You start at the bottom, where the carvings show human desires and suffering. As you go higher, the reliefs become more peaceful. And at the top, there's nothing—just open space and the great stupas. Nirvana."
Ethan let that sink in. A temple designed to guide you, not just physically but spiritually.
"Ready to experience it for yourself?" Rina asked.
He nodded. "Let's go."
Walking Through Time
By the time they arrived at the entrance to Borobudur, the sky was fully lit, though the early morning still kept the crowds thin. The temple, built in the 9th century, stood like a colossal stone mountain—nine stacked platforms, each one carved with thousands of intricate reliefs depicting Buddhist teachings.
As Ethan climbed the steep stone steps, he ran his fingers over the carvings. Scenes of daily life, ancient kings, monks in meditation, celestial beings—it was like walking through a story frozen in time.
"You see this one?" Rina pointed to a panel where a group of people surrounded a reclining figure. "It's the Great Departure. The moment Prince Siddhartha leaves his palace to seek enlightenment."
Ethan traced the details with his eyes. "It's incredible how much detail is in these."
They continued upwards, moving through the circular terraces where 72 bell-shaped stupas stood, each housing a statue of Buddha inside. Ethan peered through the openings of one, catching a glimpse of the serene stone figure within.
"The legend says if you touch Buddha's hand inside one of the stupas, your wish will come true," Rina said with a grin.
Ethan chuckled. "Guess I should make a wish, then."
Instead of reaching in, though, he just stood there, taking in the scene—the morning light filtering through the mist, the quiet hum of monks chanting in the distance, the way the temple seemed to breathe with the land around it.
For the first time in a long while, he didn't feel the need to make a wish.
Local Flavors and Hidden Temples
After descending from Borobudur, Ethan and Rina stopped at a nearby warung for breakfast. The small eatery was nothing fancy—just a wooden shack with plastic chairs—but the smell of freshly cooked nasi gudeg (jackfruit stew) was mouthwatering.
Ethan dug into his plate, the sweet and savory flavors of the dish blending perfectly with the spicy sambal on the side.
"This is the real Yogyakarta experience," Rina said, taking a bite.
After breakfast, instead of heading straight back to the city, they decided to explore some of the hidden temples nearby—lesser-known sites often overlooked by tourists.
Their first stop was Candi Mendut, a smaller but equally fascinating temple located just a few kilometers from Borobudur. Unlike the massive stupas of Borobudur, Mendut housed a towering statue of Buddha, his hands resting in a gesture of teaching.
"This temple is older than Borobudur," Rina explained. "Pilgrims used to visit here first before making their way to the main temple."
A short drive away, they also visited Candi Pawon, a compact temple shrouded by trees. The temple's exact purpose remained a mystery, but its detailed carvings hinted at its religious significance.
Ethan found himself appreciating these smaller sites just as much as Borobudur. They lacked the grand scale, but they had an intimacy, a sense of solitude that made them feel even more sacred.
A Farewell and New Plans
As the sun climbed higher, it was time to part ways. Rina had to catch a train back to Jakarta, and Ethan was preparing for his next destination—Dieng Plateau, a highland region known for its mystical landscapes and ancient temples.
"You should visit Umbul Ponggok before you leave Yogyakarta," Rina suggested. "It's a natural spring where you can snorkel with fish—super unique."
Ethan noted it down.
"Maybe I'll see you again somewhere on the road," Rina said as they exchanged contacts.
"Wouldn't be surprised," Ethan replied with a grin. "Southeast Asia seems to bring people together like that."
As he watched her disappear into the crowd, he felt a quiet sense of gratitude. Traveling wasn't just about places—it was about connections, fleeting yet meaningful.
That night, as he packed his bag for Dieng Plateau, Ethan felt the thrill of anticipation again. A new adventure awaited, and he was ready for whatever came next.
End of Chapter 15
Ethan's journey through Java continues as he heads into the misty highlands of Dieng. What secrets will he uncover among the ancient temples and volcanic landscapes?