Chereads / Exploring beautiful Southeast Asia / Chapter 16 - Chapter 17: Coastal Charms of Semarang

Chapter 16 - Chapter 17: Coastal Charms of Semarang

The winding roads out of Dieng Plateau took Ethan through miles of terraced fields, misty hills, and quiet villages before finally descending toward the bustling coastal city of Semarang. The change in landscape was dramatic—the cool mountain air gave way to humid sea breezes, and the quiet countryside was replaced by the vibrant hum of urban life.

Semarang, the capital of Central Java, was unlike any place he had visited so far. It wasn't as famous as Jakarta or Yogyakarta, but it had its own charm—Dutch colonial buildings, lively markets, and a coastline stretching out toward the Java Sea.

His first stop? Lawang Sewu, a place known as much for its history as for its eerie reputation.

Echoes of the Past at Lawang Sewu

Lawang Sewu—literally "Thousand Doors"—was an old colonial-era building that once served as the headquarters of the Dutch East Indies Railway Company. As Ethan stepped through its grand entrance, he was immediately struck by its architectural beauty. High-arched windows, long hallways, and intricate stained glass gave the building a haunting elegance.

But beneath the beauty, Lawang Sewu carried a dark past. During World War II, it was used as a prison by Japanese forces, and the basement was rumored to have been a place of torture. Ethan followed a guide through the dimly lit corridors, listening to the whispered stories of ghostly apparitions and unexplained occurrences.

"Would you like to see the underground prison?" the guide asked with a knowing smile.

Ethan hesitated for a moment but nodded. They descended into the damp, claustrophobic basement, where rusted chains still hung from the walls. A chill ran down his spine.

Standing there in the half-light, he could almost hear the echoes of the past—the footsteps of prisoners, the distant sound of train whistles, the weight of history pressing down on the space. He exhaled, shaking off the eerie feeling, and stepped back into the warm afternoon sun.

A Walk Through Kota Lama

After the heaviness of Lawang Sewu, Ethan needed a change of pace. He made his way to Kota Lama, Semarang's old town, where remnants of the Dutch colonial era still stood proudly.

Cobblestone streets wound past pastel-colored buildings, some beautifully restored, others left in a romantic state of decay. Street musicians played soft melodies, and small cafés spilled out onto the sidewalks, their tables shaded by large umbrellas.

He stopped at a quaint coffee shop called Spiegel, a beautifully restored 19th-century building now serving some of the best coffee in town. Sipping on a strong Javanese brew, he watched as locals and tourists mingled, enjoying the slow rhythm of the district.

A short walk away stood Gereja Blenduk, an old Protestant church with a distinctive dome roof. Built in the 18th century, it was one of the oldest buildings in the city. Ethan admired its elegant architecture, wondering how many generations had walked through its doors.

A Taste of Semarang: Lumpia and Street Food Delights

No visit to Semarang would be complete without trying its famous lumpia—a spring roll filled with bamboo shoots, egg, and shrimp, wrapped in a thin, crispy skin. He found a small warung near Simpang Lima, the city's main square, and ordered a plate.

The first bite was an explosion of flavors—savory, slightly sweet, with just the right amount of crunch. It was different from the lumpia he had tried elsewhere in Southeast Asia, uniquely Semarang's own.

Encouraged by the delicious start, he explored more of the city's street food scene. He sampled tahu gimbal, a dish of fried tofu mixed with shrimp, cabbage, and a thick peanut sauce. Then wingko babat, a chewy coconut cake grilled to perfection.

As he sat on a plastic stool, watching the city move around him, he realized something—food wasn't just about eating. It was a way of experiencing a place, understanding its culture, and connecting with the people who called it home.

Sunset at Marina Beach

As evening approached, Ethan made his way to Marina Beach, a popular spot where locals gathered to watch the sunset. It wasn't the most pristine beach he had seen, but the atmosphere was lively—families picnicking, couples strolling hand in hand, children playing in the sand.

He found a quiet spot near the water and sat down. The sky turned shades of pink and orange, the sun dipping below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the sea.

A street vendor passed by, selling es puter, a traditional coconut ice cream. Ethan bought a cup, savoring the creamy, slightly icy texture as he watched the last light fade from the sky.

Semarang had surprised him. It wasn't a city that screamed for attention, but it had layers—history, food, culture—all waiting to be discovered.

As he walked back toward his guesthouse, he felt a sense of quiet satisfaction. His next destination, Karimunjawa, a remote island paradise off the coast of Java, promised a different kind of adventure.

For now, though, he was content to let Semarang leave its mark on him, one memory at a time.

End of Chapter 17