Ethan's journey through Indonesia had taken him from the tropical beaches of Bali to the remote islands of Karimunjawa, but now he was in Yogyakarta, the cultural heart of Java. Known for its rich history, ancient temples, and vibrant arts scene, Yogyakarta had always been on Ethan's list of must-visit places. The city was known for its distinctive blend of traditional Javanese culture with modern influences, making it one of the most dynamic destinations in Southeast Asia.
As the train rolled into the station, Ethan felt a wave of excitement. This was the first time he was visiting Yogyakarta, and the place already felt different from the bustling cities he had passed through. The air was cooler here, especially in the evenings, and the people seemed more relaxed, with an easy pace that matched the surroundings. The Argo Dwipangga Express had been a comfortable journey, offering stunning views of the lush rice paddies and distant volcanoes. He'd met a friendly couple on the train, local Javanese who were kind enough to offer him recommendations for his stay.
After disembarking at the station, Ethan made his way to his guesthouse, a small homestay located in a quiet residential area near the Sultan's Palace, or Kraton, the heart of Yogyakarta's historical district. The homestay owner, a friendly woman named Ibu Sari, greeted him with a warm smile and served him a cup of freshly brewed kopi tubruk, a Javanese-style coffee known for its strong flavor and sweetness.
"You're lucky," she said, handing him the cup. "Yogyakarta is beautiful in the mornings and evenings, with a little quiet in between. Enjoy it while you can."
Ethan nodded, appreciating the peaceful atmosphere. His plans for the next few days were already coming together. He'd heard so much about Borobudur and Prambanan, two of Indonesia's most iconic landmarks, but he wanted to see more of the city's hidden gems—places that weren't overrun with tourists. Yogyakarta, after all, wasn't just about the famous temples—it was about experiencing the pulse of a place, understanding its culture, and walking its streets like a local.
A Ride Through Yogyakarta: The Cultural Blend
The next morning, Ethan rented a motorbike to explore the city. The motorbike rental shop was just a short walk from his guesthouse, and after a brief conversation with the owner, he was ready to hit the streets. The motorbike was a small, reliable scooter, perfect for navigating the narrow alleys and bustling markets of Yogyakarta.
As he cruised through the streets, Ethan took in the sights and sounds of the city. The streets of Yogyakarta were vibrant but not overwhelmingly so. There were street vendors selling wedang ronde (sweet ginger tea) and bakpia (a traditional pastry filled with sweet bean paste), and young men on bicycles decorated with flowers. Locals were busy with their daily routines, and the atmosphere felt familiar and laid-back—far from the chaotic rush of Jakarta.
Ethan's first stop was the Taman Sari Water Castle, a historical site that was once the royal garden of the Sultan. The entrance was tucked away among narrow alleys, and as he stepped through the archway, he felt like he had entered a different world. The former royal pools were now surrounded by lush greenery, with traditional Javanese architecture blending with the ruins of the past. He wandered through the complex, imagining what it must have been like in its prime, with the Sultan's concubines bathing in the pools and attendants walking along the paths.
Next, he made his way to the famous Malioboro Street, known for its bustling markets and vibrant atmosphere. Ethan wasn't there to shop for souvenirs, though. He had heard about the Pasar Beringharjo, a traditional market where locals sold everything from batik fabric to fresh produce. Here, he encountered an entirely different side of Yogyakarta—a place where you could watch local craftsmen working their trade, from weaving intricate batik patterns to carving wooden sculptures. Ethan found himself drawn to one of the stalls, where an elderly man was painstakingly carving small wooden figurines. The man looked up, smiled, and invited Ethan to take a closer look.
"The art of carving is passed down through generations," the man explained. "Every piece tells a story. Like this one—it's of the Ramayana, an ancient Javanese epic."
Ethan admired the craftsmanship, buying a small figure to take back home as a reminder of his time in Yogyakarta.
After a few hours of wandering the market, he decided to venture out of the city and see what the countryside had to offer. Following the advice of a local, he headed toward Kaliurang, a highland retreat located on the slopes of the mighty Mount Merapi. The road to Kaliurang was winding and steep, flanked by lush green fields and sprawling tea plantations. As he rode up, the temperature dropped, and the cool mountain breeze was a welcome change from the tropical heat of Yogyakarta.
Borobudur at Dawn: A Spiritual Encounter
The next morning, Ethan woke up early for his visit to Borobudur, the world's largest Buddhist temple, located about an hour outside Yogyakarta. He had heard that the temple was at its most magical at sunrise, so he wanted to be there before the crowds arrived. He hired a local guide named Rudi, a young man with a deep knowledge of the temple's history and significance. Rudi was passionate about Borobudur, and his enthusiasm was infectious.
As they arrived at the temple, the sky was still dark, with just a hint of orange beginning to break through the horizon. The air was cool, and the silence of the place was almost reverent. There were only a few other tourists, mostly photographers eager to capture the first light of the day. The grandeur of Borobudur was overwhelming—the temple was made of thousands of volcanic stones, intricately carved with scenes from Buddhist scriptures. As they climbed the steps to the top, Rudi explained the symbolism behind each of the levels of the temple. "The journey to the top represents the path to enlightenment," he said, his voice soft against the backdrop of the rising sun.
Ethan felt a deep sense of peace as he reached the top of the temple. From here, he could see the sprawling countryside below, the mist rising from the fields, and the volcanoes in the distance. He sat for a while in quiet contemplation, reflecting on the beauty and history of the place. Borobudur was more than just a monument—it was a symbol of Indonesia's rich spiritual heritage.
Exploring the Quiet Corners of Yogyakarta
After his visit to Borobudur, Ethan headed back to Yogyakarta and decided to take a detour to explore the less-touristy areas of the city. He had heard about a small village called Kasongan, just outside of Yogyakarta, known for its pottery. The village was nestled in the lush countryside, far from the crowds that flocked to the city's more famous attractions. As Ethan entered the village, he was greeted by rows of workshops, each one filled with artisans shaping clay into beautiful, functional pieces.
He stopped at one of the workshops, where an elderly woman was spinning clay on a wheel. She smiled and invited him to sit, explaining the process of making traditional Javanese pottery. Ethan watched in awe as she skillfully shaped the clay, turning it into a delicate teapot. He tried his hand at the wheel, with the woman guiding his hands as he worked. It was a humbling experience, and Ethan couldn't help but feel a sense of connection to the tradition that had been passed down through generations.
Prambanan: A Majestic Hindu Legacy
Later that day, Ethan decided to visit Prambanan, another UNESCO World Heritage Site located about 17 kilometers from Yogyakarta. Unlike Borobudur, which was a Buddhist temple, Prambanan was a Hindu complex, and its soaring towers were a testament to the grandeur of ancient Javanese architecture. The temple was dedicated to the Hindu trinity of Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva, and the carvings on the walls depicted stories from the Hindu epics of the Ramayana and Mahabharata.
As Ethan walked through the temple complex, he was struck by the sheer scale and beauty of the place. The central temple dedicated to Shiva stood tall and proud, with intricate carvings and stone reliefs depicting scenes from the Hindu pantheon. The surrounding temples were smaller but no less impressive, each one a work of art in its own right.
Ethan took his time exploring Prambanan, allowing the place to sink in, its beauty and history resonating with him on a deeper level.
The Night Market in Yogyakarta: A Feast for the Senses
That evening, Ethan wandered back into the heart of Yogyakarta, heading towards the Alun-Alun Kidul, the bustling square near the Kraton. The night market was in full swing, and the air was thick with the scent of street food—grilled satay, fresh fruit, and the sweet aroma of local desserts. The market was a sensory overload in the best way possible. Music played from a nearby stage, and locals milled around, enjoying the cool evening air.
Ethan stopped at a food stall and ordered sate klathak, a Yogyakarta specialty—grilled mutton skewers cooked over an open flame and served with a tangy peanut sauce. The meat was tender, juicy, and charred to perfection. He also tried a bowl of nasi gudeg, a traditional dish made with young jackfruit, coconut milk, and spices. It was a comforting dish, and the flavors were rich and satisfying.
As he sat on the edge of the square, watching the city come alive at night, Ethan felt content. Yogyakarta had exceeded his expectations—its blend of history, culture, and modernity had left a lasting impression on him. There was so much more to explore in this city, but for now, he was simply happy to be here, in this moment, enjoying the small things—the food, the people, the stories.
End of Chapter 20