The idea of going to Livorno once again came up in a conversation with Maria Grazia, who asked to join. The two arranged to meet in a few days and go to Livorno for a day. Maria Grazia told her husband that Aunt Clara was not feeling well and that they must talk to her and try to convince her to move to a nursing home.
The subject of Judaism was kept a secret from family and friends alike. Graziella had been sworn to secrecy, even though she did not believe a word.
Beatrice arrived at Maria Grazia's house in her car to pick her up on the appointed day. They decided to surprise Aunt Clara and not tell her they were coming.
Heavy rain fell as they crossed the Lazio border into Tuscany, in the area of the hill town of Orvieto. They exited from the freeway and continued towards Lake Bolsena, and drove on in the direction of Pitigliano.
"Did you know that Pitigliano is known as La piccola Gerusalemme,?"
"No, I did not know. I have never visited the town. Where does that name come from?"
"I have an idea," Beatrice said. "Let's take a tour of the town; I read there is an ancient synagogue there."
Maria Grazia immediately agreed. "What fun it is with you, Mamma. I wish there were many more times like this one. When you were with Dad, you never took us on trips."
"Right, my darling. Your father was busy at work, and it was not easy for all of us."
As they parked in the piazza. The whole city was spread out before them within its walls and spires with the ancient buildings and narrow streets making it look like the middle Ages.
"If not for the people walking around in jeans and T-shirts, I would imagine we were back in those times."
Suddenly a short, chubby man with a badge on the lapel of his jacket approached them. "Buongiorno, I'm Leonardo. Do you need a guide?"
"An excellent idea. Let's begin from right here and tell us mostly about the Jewish settlement here."
Leonardo led them to the main street, and as they progressed, he began talking.
"At the end of the fifteenth century, there were tiny, independent principalities in Tuscany on the border of Lazio. One of which belonged to Duke Orsini and included the towns of Soave, Sorano, and Pitigliano. When the status of the de Medici family from Florence was undermined, many Jews were granted asylum in the independent towns. They could live freely without the severe restrictions imposed on them in Florence by the popes. Many of them were bankers; there even was a famous physician named David de Vries who treated the duke's family. The Jews were allowed to build a synagogue, a mikveh, a bakery and were permitted to own property.
"In the middle of the sixteenth century, the city of Castro was destroyed, and its Jews fled to Pitigliano. Then families from Castell'Ottieri, Scansano, and eventually families from Santa Fiore and Sorano also arrived. That is how Pitigliano became a city with the largest Jewish community in southern Tuscany. As their numbers increased among the Christian residents, the Jews received representation in the municipality. The relationship between the Jews and the Christians was so extraordinary and tolerant it was jointly decided that the city be known as "Little Jerusalem."
While Leonardo was telling the history of the town, they arrived at the synagogue. Beatrice entered first and was shocked to see the place neglected and empty of furniture.
"There are no Jews in Pitigliano today," he explained. "After the 1960s, the synagogue stopped operating as many moved to the big cities or emigrated to Israel. Before that, the Germans deported some to extermination camps."
After they left Pitigliano, Beatrice drove a long time in silence. They approached the west shore of Tuscany, and the buildings of the town of Grosseto were visible on the horizon.
"We will drive along the shore to Livorno," she said.
After stopping for coffee and pastries at a local bar, they continued north and started climbing the road that ascends to the town of Follonica. When they reached the top of the hill, they stopped for a moment to look at the scenery. In the distance, they could see the island of Elba, and from the marina, they saw ferries sailing to it.
The road stretched through green hills adorned with rows and rows of vines arranged on terraces as in ancient paintings. "God was very generous in His creation of Tuscany's nature." Maria Grazia suddenly said. "It's as beautiful as on postcards."
They then passed through the town of Cecina, which is close to the sea. "Here is where your grandfather would take us in the summer. I still remember one such trip," said Beatrice.
Towards noon, they reached the outskirts of Livorno and decided to have lunch in the Il Molo Rosso fish restaurant in the old port opposite the Fortezza, the ancient fortress.